In the crisp January morning air of Venice, something peculiar happens on the Grand Canal. As the city celebrates Epiphany on January 6th, a group of elderly men dressed as “befane” (witches) climb into their mascarandolas—traditional Venetian boats—and race through the waters in what has become one of Venice’s most beloved modern traditions: the Regatta delle Befane.
The Legend of La Befana
To understand this quirky race, one must first know about La Befana, Italy’s beloved Christmas witch. According to folklore, this elderly woman flies on her broomstick every January 5th, delivering candy and small gifts to good children and coal to the naughty ones. She’s essentially Italy’s answer to Santa Claus, but with a distinctly Mediterranean twist.
A Modern Tradition with Ancient Roots
The Regatta delle Befane began in 1978 when a group of veteran Venetian rowers from the Bucintoro Rowing Club decided to add some humor to the Epiphany celebrations. These experienced oarsmen, all over 50 years old, dressed up as witches and raced their boats through Venice’s most famous waterway.
What started as a lighthearted joke has evolved into a cherished annual event that perfectly encapsulates Venice’s unique character—where sacred traditions meet carnival-like festivities, and serious athletic skill merges with playful theatricality.
The Race Today
The competition begins near the Rialto Bridge, one of Venice’s most iconic landmarks. Competitors, dressed in their best befana costumes—complete with long skirts, shawls, and the characteristic hooked noses—navigate their traditional boats through the Grand Canal. Some even accessorize their vessels with brooms and other witch-themed decorations.
Despite the comedic appearance, these are skilled rowers with decades of experience navigating Venice’s waterways. The race requires both strength and precision, especially when maneuvering through the Grand Canal’s busy traffic and under its historic bridges.
More Than Just a Race
The Regatta delle Befane has become more than just a sporting event—it’s a celebration of Venetian culture and community. Spectators line the canal banks and bridges, cheering on their favorite “witches.” Local children especially delight in the spectacle, as the befane often toss candy to the crowds between rowing strokes.
The event perfectly demonstrates how Venice continues to reinvent itself while honoring its traditions. It combines the city’s historic maritime culture with its love of festivals and masquerade, creating something uniquely Venetian.
Practical Information
For visitors lucky enough to be in Venice on January 6th, the race typically begins mid-morning. The best viewing spots are along the Grand Canal, particularly near the Rialto Bridge. The event is free to watch and usually lasts about an hour, though the festive atmosphere continues throughout the day.
Remember to arrive early to secure a good viewing spot, and don’t forget to bring a camera—the sight of elderly men racing boats while dressed as witches isn’t something you see every day, even in Venice.
A Living Tradition
The Regatta delle Befane reminds us that traditions don’t have to be ancient to be meaningful. Sometimes, the newest traditions can capture the spirit of a place just as effectively as those that have existed for centuries. In this case, the race has become a beloved part of Venice’s cultural calendar, bringing joy and laughter to the cold January days while celebrating the city’s enduring relationship with its waters.
Whether you’re a rowing enthusiast, a lover of quirky festivals, or simply someone who appreciates the unique ways communities celebrate their heritage, the Regatta delle Befane offers a glimpse into the playful soul of Venice—a city that continues to surprise and delight, even after centuries of history.
- For More Information: Regatta Office: +39 041 2748211|