In the heart of Venice’s labyrinthine waterways, every spring brings a spectacular sight: thousands of rowing enthusiasts from around the world gathering for the Vogalonga, a 30-kilometer (19-mile) rowing event that has become one of the city’s most beloved traditions. But what many don’t know is that this colorful celebration began as a protest against the modernization threatening Venice’s maritime heritage.
The Birth of a Movement
The story of the Vogalonga begins in 1974, during a time when motorized boats were increasingly dominating Venice’s canals. A group of passionate Venetians, concerned about the damage caused by motor boat waves (known as “moto ondoso”) to the city’s historic buildings and the gradual disappearance of traditional rowing culture, decided to take action.
On the day of the first Vogalonga, a small group of friends gathered to row the traditional Venetian boats through the city’s waters. Their goal was simple yet powerful: to demonstrate that the traditional way of navigating Venice’s waters was not only possible but preferable. The name “Vogalonga” literally means “long row” in Venetian dialect, perfectly describing the event’s nature.
The Route: A Journey Through History
The Vogalonga’s route is a testament to Venice’s maritime heritage. Starting in Saint Mark’s Basin, participants row past the iconic Saint Mark’s Square, through the Grand Canal, and out to the northern lagoon. The journey takes rowers past the colorful islands of Burano and Murano, before returning to Venice through the Cannaregio Canal. This challenging course not only tests participants’ endurance but also showcases the breathtaking beauty of Venice’s lagoon landscape.
More Than Just a Race
What makes the Vogalonga unique is that it’s not a race in the traditional sense. There are no winners or losers, no prizes for finishing first. Instead, it’s a celebration of rowing culture and a reminder of Venice’s intimate relationship with its waters. The event welcomes all types of human-powered boats, from traditional Venetian vessels like gondolas and sandoli to modern kayaks and dragon boats.
A Global Gathering
From its humble beginnings with just a few dozen participants, the Vogalonga has grown into an international event attracting thousands of rowers from across the globe. On the day of the event, Venice’s waters come alive with a stunning array of boats: sleek racing shells, traditional wooden boats, and even quirky homemade vessels, all powered by human strength and determination.
Cultural Impact and Legacy
The Vogalonga has succeeded beyond its founders’ wildest dreams. While it hasn’t completely eliminated motorboat traffic in Venice, it has helped raise awareness about the importance of preserving traditional rowing culture and protecting Venice’s delicate marine environment. The event has inspired similar initiatives in other water-based cities and continues to draw attention to the challenges facing historic maritime communities.
Participating in the Tradition
For those interested in participating, the Vogalonga typically takes place on a Sunday in May or June, depending on the tidal calendar. Registration is open to anyone with a human-powered boat, though it’s essential to have proper rowing experience given the length and potential challenges of the course. Many local rowing clubs offer training sessions and boat rentals in the weeks leading up to the event.
Looking to the Future
As Venice faces new challenges, from overtourism to rising sea levels, the Vogalonga serves as a powerful reminder of the city’s resilience and the importance of maintaining its traditional practices. The event demonstrates how a grassroots movement can evolve into a beloved tradition while staying true to its original mission of environmental and cultural preservation.
For one day each year, as thousands of oars dip into the lagoon’s waters in unified motion, Venice returns to its roots as a city built on the harmony between humans and water. The Vogalonga stands as a testament to the power of community action and the enduring appeal of Venice’s maritime heritage.
Whether you’re a seasoned rower or simply an admirer of Venice’s unique culture, the Vogalonga offers a glimpse into a world where tradition and modernity coexist, where protest becomes celebration, and where the simple act of rowing becomes a powerful statement about the kind of future we want to create for our historic waterways.
For more information: vogalonga.com/